Aug. 20, 2005: Cab from Oakland Airport to Berkeley. Afghan cab driver quotes Mark Twain on SF weather, having read Twain in Farsi. Left during Soviet invasion and taught at University of Wisconsin. Naturally, we eat Middle Eastern lunch on Shattuck. Le Viet on Bancroft for dinner, much better, crab and pike maw soup and North Vietnamese beer. The Berkeley paths are beautiful and the hippies on Telegraph Ave. are still right.
Aug. 21, 2005: Only we would walk so far through the residential and industrial neighborhoods of Berkeley, rolling bags in tow, to get to Budget Car Rental. Lots of interesting arts and crafts homes, crepe myrtles, surprisingly good breakfast on San Pablo of pan-fried trout and eggs. It’s on to Napa to see Ed and Cheryl. Ed wants to leave political work after all these years for something in branding. But it’s good to see them and the dogs. The kids particularly like Scooter who suffers from some sort of post-traumatic stress. Tastings at William Hill and Mumm vineyards. The kids ask permission to eat the grapes around the parking lot at William Hill and are surprised to be granted it. They prefer Cabernet Sauvignon.
Aug. 22, 2005: Napa breakfast is good too, Garden Benedict with fresh avocado, affording a view of the parade of dandy vineyard owners headed into the courthouse with their cowboy hats. On to Muir Woods. The Redwoods are big indeed. The beach is closed due to bacteria. Billy can spot a British pub a mile away. He stops us at the Pelican Inn where the bangers and mash are authentically bad; Billy enjoys his shephard’s pie and I am intrigued by the sliding door in the men’s room. Cath was thrilled with the ride over the GG bridge, clicking interesting pictures all the way. Settled at Handlery Hotel on Union Square and began walking SF, first to Washington Square Park, which Ann had talked up. It is very nice. Walked with bao in Chinatown, cioppino etc at Trattoria Pinocchio in North Beach.
Aug. 23, 2005: Joanne and I begin every day bringing back breakfast from the deli in the downtown parking garage on Mason Street or others. Then we all swim in the Handlery Pool. Lunch on first day is dim sum on Pacific. Despite vows not to climb hills, we climb Nob, Russian and Telegraph hills all the very first full day in SF. Elevator to Top of Mark on Nob Hill. Coit Tower on Telegraph Hill has great WPA murals with strong political messages. The public stairways pass down the hill through beautifully planted yards and cliffsides to the Bay. Near Levi Strauss, we sit and watch ducklings. A man stares at the ducklings, at the people, appearing at first to be perhaps a rehearsing terrorist or a security guard. He is a municipal employee charged with helping the ducks cross the Embarcadero to the Bay, where they splash in. We are surprised when he tells us in front of the kids that the ducklings will not stand a chance with the predators in the Bay. Up Russian Hill to see curvy part of Lombard for Cath. Fisherman’s Wharf is truly atrocious. But the cruise under the GG and the stands selling calamari salad make it worthwhile. Dinner at Fog City Diner on Ann’s recommendation; all seafood incl raw oysters for me. Wishing for a trolley back but they are replaced by buses at night. Beginning of much municipal bus riding.
Aug. 24, 2005: Civic Center, chicken curry nan on the lawn, full lunch at Moishe’s Chicago deli in newly hip Hayes Valley incl chicken liver matzo ball soup like Gram used to make. Joanne has kreplach in her soup. Billy has a sandwich of corned beef and pastrami. Cath a bagel. Bus to Haight but missed Ashbury, walk to GG Park, bus to Clement for excellent dim sum in hand and Burmese dinner of pumpkin and shrimp.
Aug. 25, 2005: Cath and I begin with a Dali show on Geary. Nice work. Cath believes SF cable cars are more interesting and fun even than advertised and she may be right, though they are hard to find a spot on. We hang off the sides, watching out for the mirrors of parked cars on our way up Powell, taking the cc all the way to the ferry for Tiburon. We keep saying how Mediterranean Tiburon looks and it really does, including the elevators going up the flowery hillsides. Back to SF with stops for caviar and pecorino romano at the Ferry Bldg., followed by rotating top of Hyatt for a virgin bloody mary etc. At Billy’s request, dinner at the Handlery’s own Daily Grill. It may not be much but it’s home.
Aug. 26, 2005: Good show of rock and roll photos near Union Square. Max Beckman et al at the SF Museum of Modern Art, but SOMA is not happening unless you need your car fixed. Municipal buses to the rescue, we beat it to Marina District and watch the windsurfers. Back through Presidio, Union Street, Pacific Heights, etc. Good tapas on the hill at Union and Hyde, sushi sails by in wooden boats on mechanical arms on Geary; not so good.
Aug. 27, 2005: Indonesian fish in banana leaves on Post.
